Keeping on Keeping on: Eucla to Nullarbor

Eucla to a bush camp

After yesterday's lovely short stage into Eucla and a chance to freshen up and do a few bits of maintenance we were well primed for a longer ride again. The plan was to ride somewhere between 100 and 130 kilometres to a bush camp. The actual distance would be influenced by weather, how we riders were going and where Collis could find a suitable spot to set up camp.

Another major milestone was achieved when we crossed the South Australia border after only 14 kilometres. That's one state finished with, now for the other three! Collis had scheduled a stop for an obligatory group photo ...

Di, Doug, Jim, Jacquei & Peter

The actual sign welcoming people into South Australia features the Bunda Cliffs - the longest uninterrupted line of sea cliffs in the world! - that define the Great Australian Bight for much of its length ...

The Bunda Cliffs

An aside: the intrepid New Zealand canoeist Paul Caffyn told us that paddling along the cliffs was the  most challenging part of his circumnavigation of Australia, as he had to stay awake for so long while traversing this part of the coastline. If you don't know about Paul but like reading about epic adventures, get on to his books.

Photo obligations done, we set off again. It had showered between Eucla and the border but cleared up as we were having a coffee. There was a gentle tailwind so it looked like a great day's riding was ahead, as Collis had told us we'd get good views of the ocean along the way. Before we did we passed another Royal Flying Doctor Service emergency airstrip. I tried another video, which worked better, although the sound is very ordinary due to the inferior microphone in my dinky little camera. Still, you might like to have a look just to see how the road verge is widened significantly on both sides, as is the paved shoulder ...

We were soon riding alongside the coast and afforded some nice views ...

The Southern Ocean from the Eyre Highway

Some of us were looking, some weren't ...

(Not) looking, not waving, not drowning ... but smiling!

When she had her eyes open, Di did take this lovely panorama using the built-in technology on her phone ...

Ocean panorama - with rainbow!

Collis chose a great spot for lunch 65 kilometres into the ride. We were able to go along to the edge of the cliff for some good views, both looking east ...

Peter contemplated the depths of the Southern Ocean

... and west ...

Not too close: the edge is very crumbly!

Back on the road we passed a sign that made Di wonder: "Are these animals depicted to scale?" If so, we might see some megafauna ...

Road hazards along the Eyre Highway

At lunch we'd discussed what might be the best option for the distance of today's ride. As the conditions were favourable the general consensus was to go as close to the full 130 kilometres originally planned so as to minimise tomorrow's ride and lengthen the time we could spend resting before the two big days to follow. As it turned out, Collis found a great spot just past 130 kilometres where we had a bit of shelter from a couple clumps of large shrubs.

While it was still light I took this photo of the spare bike on top of Kathy's car, which I thought looked kind of nice against the clouds over the Southern Ocean beyond ...

Riding the easy way

As with the other bush camps, Kathy cooked us up a great meal: a hearty Chilli Non-Carné followed up by a wonderful Bread and Butter Pudding. Jim, Collis and I collaborated to get a fantastic blaze going ...

Another brilliant bush camp blaze

 The fire was still smouldering in the morning so we were able to ward off the morning's chill whilst having breakfast ...

The morning after?

Remarkably, despite a light shower at one stage during the night and complete cloud cover when we got up the breeze that persisted through the night allowed us to pack up a dry tent for only the second time throughout the trip.

Bush camp to Nullarbor Roadhouse

The long stage yesterday afforded us another nice short stage - the second in three days! - into Nullarbor. Di and I had decided on a no-stop strategy for the stage, i.e. not stopping for the designated morning tea stop at 45 kilometres. We thought it would be good to get into the roadhouse and have as much time as possible to do the laundry, refuel and rest up for the two long days to come before Ceduna. We did pause once for a quick snack and to take a couple of photos of the immense plain we were traversing ...

Happiness is ... a stop along the way!

Wide open spaces

Without too many cross words from my cycling companion we were soon nearing the Nullarbor Roadhouse, and the start of the real Nullarbor Plain ...

So now we're finally on the Nullarbor?

If you look closely at the photo above you will be able to make out a road train off in the distance in front of Di. It was the second of two livestock transports that had just gone past, bringing with them a pretty strong odour.

Just before the turn-off into the roadhouse I noticed this cairn and plaque on the other side of the road ...

Testament to the pioneering spirit

I can't imagine the sense of remoteness that the folks must have felt way out here on their own 150 or so years ago.

Here's the sign welcoming visitors to the Nullarbor Roadhouse, with a large road train and the two sheep transports just off to the left in the background ...

Welcome to Nullarbor Roadhouse

The little hump on the side of the rearmost sheep truck is a guy climbing up to check on the condition of the sheep aboard. The next photo gives a better idea of the size of the two trucks and a sense of how many sheep are on board. If you look closely you will see that there are four levels carrying live meat ...

Moving meat from the bush to the city

... so it's no wonder there was such a smell as they blasted past us on the highway.  The guy on the right has a little electrified prod to give sheep that are laying down a little shock to test whether they are still alive - and kicking. The stop here at Nullarbor must have been primarily just to check on the condition of the stock because they were gone within minutes of me taking this photo. 

The other road-going thing of major interest pulled over here at Nullarbor when we arrived was this lot ...

Yet another huge machine on the Eyre Highway

I still can't figure out exactly what it was, but probably something to do with mining I reckon.

This sign on the side of the roadhouse gives a good description of the Nullarbor Plain ...

The Nullarbor Plain

And now it's off to bed in preparation for a big day tomorrow, and then another the day after. The next post will be from Ceduna, where we will be more than halfway into our journey. See you then!